Iceland has been at the tippy top of my travel list for years and years. Seeing endless pictures of the northern lights and snow-capped mountains in this distant Nordic land kept me hooked.

Usually, I’m not quite the planner type when it comes to traveling, but I planned this trip pretty darn well if I do say so myself. I wanted to get the most out of my stay, while also keeping a good balance. Part of me hates being so slammed when traveling that the vacation seems like a blur, but I don’t want to leave feeling like I should’ve done more — like I missed out on something.

I took special care with this trip, making sure that my I’s were dotted and T’s crossed. (Shout out to Trello for keeping me organized.)

CHECK OUT MY ENTIRE PHOTO GALLERY FROM THE TRIP

A Killer Deal on Tickets

I’m not making this up, on my birthday I got a notification from Hopper that tickets to Iceland dropped to a ridiculous amount. For two round-trip tickets, we paid around $500. Like, how could you not? Happy birthday to me, basically.

(But, not really. Iceland was mine and Ashley’s honeymoon. We were going to get married there, but opted for Costa Rica instead.)

We jumped on the deal, bought the tickets and planned to take 10 days to enjoy the land of fire and ice at the end of September. Early research told us that foot traffic died down around September, but many of the natural attractions and trails are still open. Win-win.

Road-tripping vs. …not road-tripping

One thing that had me a bit concerned about Iceland was driving. Just a bit.

(There is a page in Rick Steve’s travel book on Iceland titled, “The Many Ways Iceland Can Kill You.” It caught my attention.)

Living in Minnesota has its advantages — one being that I’ve learned how to drive in pretty much every kind of weather conditions. But, it’s pretty flat here. Minnesota is relatively deprived of mountains unfortunately, so I don’t have a ton of experience on real narrow passes or steep grades.

I did drive in Colorado once… once.

But, in retrospect, I worried for nothing. Driving in Iceland was a cinch, and I’m so grateful for the experience.

When Ashley and I were deciding how we wanted to experience Iceland, we balanced road-tripping versus day-tripping and using the capital, Reykjavik, as a base camp.

We didn’t think 10 days was quite enough time to get all the way around the island based on Rick Steve’s travel timeline, but we didn’t want to be confined to just one region with so many spectacular places being well outside of city limits.

Road-tripping it is. But, how?

‘Don’t Worry, Be Sexy’

My first thought was, “okay, cool, we’ll rent a car and camp out.”

Look, I’ve been winter camping and enjoyed it. I live in a particularly cold part of the world and love winter, but I’m pretty glad that we decided not to tent camp in Iceland this time around. The two-person camper that we rented was warm and cozy, and convenient. Oh, and it’s probably the most affordable way to travel in Iceland.

When driving around, you’ll see these utility-van-turned-obnoxious-campers. Not going to lie, at first you feel like you stick out like a sore thumb, until you realize how many of these vans are on the road.

We rented our camper from Kuku Campers of Iceland for just shy of $1,000 USD for roughly six days. We picked it up Sunday, dropped it off Friday. And, that price included an airport transfer, camp chairs, a few canisters of fuel, a GPS (just in case), and full coverage. Pricey, yes, but not when stacked up to a hotel and rental car or separate transportation.

Having the van allowed us to roam, make our own schedule, and do whatever we wanted. It was an excellent experience being able to venture out with little to no expectation or worry. We stopped at a million overlooks, give or take, a few small-time wool shops, and more.

It was flexibility that I’ve really only had in the States. But, I totally don’t appreciate it the same way I did when I was in Iceland, oddly enough. I think it’s because when you’re in Europe, you’re typically traveling by train or bus or another public transit option. Not by a diesel-fueled camper with “Don’t worry, be sexy” plastered on the side.

*The map below details a list of campsites in Iceland. Ashley and I used this to plot out our trip along the South Coast. We camped in Vatnajökull National Park and Thingvellir National Park. Both places were exceptional for hiking, sight seeing, and convenience.

Sticking to the Plan

Mentioned briefly earlier, I planned my trip with Trello — a project management tool that I’ve started to use for almost everything. Here’s the card that has all of the Iceland-related resources I used leading up to and during the trip:

Over the months leading up to Iceland, my wife Ashley and I were hooked to Instagram, TripAdvisor, Lonely Planet, and every other source of information on Iceland. I asked friends, co-workers, family, anybody who’d gone to get an idea of what to expect and what to see.

After delving in, we decided that driving the entire island wasn’t in the cards. We were only going for about 10 days, and we didn’t want to blow past the amazing sites we were set to encounter for the sake of keeping a schedule. Instead, we opted for just the South Coast — just the South Coast.

Check out the Trello board to see our entire schedule. (Really, I’m proud of the card and I want the recognition. Humor me, please.)

Basically, we planned to pick up our camper in Reykjavik, drive to the other side of the country, stop at as many places as possible along the way, find a few damn good camp sites, and turn back around. Sound easy?

Honestly, it was simple. And, the folks at Kuku Campers were very helpful when it came to giving us the lowdown on driving in the country, quirks of the van, and resources for the road. We were smooth sailing there and back — outside of a few things.

What’s It Like Driving on the Ring Road?

Excellent question. I had the same one when I first started looking into this trip. I found out that driving in the land of fire and ice can be a bit of a doozy to those who aren’t prepared.

But, being from the Midwest, or The Bold North rather, driving in less-than-favorable weather conditions did not frighten me in the slightest. What did was alpine driving. I’ve kind of got a thing with heights… and I drive like a grandpa.

The snow didn’t scare me. The ice didn’t scare me. The rain didn’t scare me. But what I wasn’t expecting was the sudden mix of all three of those things with a slammin’ wind gust that nearly blew me off the road.

It came out of nowhere.

As one convenience store cashier told me, “That’s iceland for you.” Weather changes rapidly, and it’s unpredictable. In the morning, it was cold, it rained and the sky looked ominous. The afternoons were a bit windy, but the sun came out and it was just swell.

Driving in a mountainous, northern island means that you basically have to be prepared for all types of weather at all times. If I had any advice for somebody who’s not 100 percent comfortable driving under these conditions is to allow all those speed demons to pass you. Go slow, take your time, and you’ll be great. Don’t ride your brakes, because that’s annoying, but drive cautiously, especially in the morning and evening when weather fronts seem to come in.

Also, pack the following just in case:

• A First-Aid kit (no brainer)

  • Include one of those reflective blankets for emergency situations or a rain poncho. You just never know and it gets cold there.

• Water and extra food

• Extra cooking fuel and stove

• A car charger

• Consider a back-up GPS (even though it would be VERY hard to get lost on the Ring Road. You’d basically have to try to get lost.)

• Some cards, a cribbage board or chess. GSI Outdoors makes great camp versions. Being bored while waiting for the rain to pass or for a tow is especially lame.

But, if you’re just sticking to the Ring Road, you’ll be absolutely fine. The road itself is well paved and maintained. There are many, many pull-off points for sight seeing or quick photos — or emergencies I suppose.

We didn’t go off-roading or bulldoze through Icelandic rivers like some gnarly folk on Instagram have, but we did manage to creep up on mountains, glacial lagoons, and black sand beaches with no issue in our front-wheel-drive, two-person camper van.

Oh, there was a warning light that went off in the van too. I suspected it to be about the emissions reading in the vehicle. I contacted Kuku about it, and they told me that if the car is driving fine to not worry about it until drop off. I brought it up again during drop off and had no issue with it.

The Key Spots of the South Coast

Before I attempt to list off some of the cool places that we stopped at while driving along the Ring Road, please note that this list isn’t comprehensive in any respect. There are so many astounding places that slip through the cracks, fly under the radar, and all that. Simply driving around the country is enough — let alone taking in these popular sights.

Skógafoss

This is the famed waterfall of Iceland that’s littered all over Instagram. (Could I be any more vague?) But in all seriousness, this waterfall is iconic and for good reason. Like many other notable and equally impressive waterfalls, Skógafoss is just off of the Ring Road, with restaurants and lodging nearby. Approaching the waterfall from the parking lot, it’s an easy hike to go snap a quick photo and bail. Or, you can ascend the stairs to the very top to a panoramic view. Spoiler: it’s worth it. Time to get your steps in.

Time here: 30 minutes to 2 hours.

The Wrecked Airplane, Sólheimasandur

Also a popular Instagrammer location, and it’s close to Skógafoss. This demolished airplane is kind of a random staple of the Icelandic road trip, given all of the beautiful natural areas that usually come to mind when visiting the country. But, this dilapidated airplane is still a sight to see. Just, wear good shoes.

My wife Ashley wore new boots during our trip there, with hopes to break them in. The boots got the best of her.

From the parking lot, the walk to the airplane is about 2 miles — maybe longer. It took us almost an hour or so to walk. Some folks on TripAdvisor said it took about a half hour. So, it’s about a half hour there, a half hour back, and you still want to check out the plane and snap a good photo. Mind you, there aren’t bathrooms nearby and the trail is a bit unforgiving because it’s long, deceivingly long, and it’s rocky. Good footwear is a must, and bring your rain jacket.

Time here: 2+ hours.

Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach in Vík

Vík is a good halfway point. It’s a good town to grab groceries, stop at a cafe or restaurant, and just refuel. The journey can be long, and you’re putting in miles for this trip. Vík is a pleasant stop, with a very rewarding scene.

When most think of Iceland’s black sand beaches, they’re likely thinking of Reynisfjara, the black sand beach featured in publications like National Geographic and said to be one of the country’s best beaches. It’s easy to see why when you step foot on the pebbly sand. You’ll round the corner to enter a massive basalt formation that resembles a craggy cathedral. It’s amazing to say the least. But, what also struck me was the power and velocity in which the sea meets the beach. The waves are aggressive on a windy day — freighting even. And sneaky too.

In fact, there are notices posted at the beach warning visitors of the “sneaker waves.” What’s happened in the past is tourists will venture too close to the sea to take a selfie and get swept away by the water when it very suddenly comes to shore. The tide is quick and unforgiving, and complacency kills. Literally.

But, outside of that, you’ll get spectacular views of the ocean, the unique rock formations, and the vivid experience of being on the beach in Iceland.

Time here: 1 hour.

Vatnajökull National Park

To me, there was nothing cooler than knowing I’d be bedding down in a national park in Iceland for a few days. The thought alone made me all giddy. Like, how cool? And it was!

Before this trip, I’d never seen a glacier. I’ve seen plenty of snow and ice in my day, but never the massive glaciers that cover the land year round. Vatnajökull National Park has many glaciers within its borders, along with several popular tourist destinations, hiking trails, campgrounds, and more.

Ashley and I stayed at Skaftafell, which is mile off the Ring Road on the western side of the park. It’s a reasonably sized campground that’s very affordable. Our first night, we paid $17 for nightly discount. The next few nights we paid $30 for the full day. The amenities at this place are unlike anything I’ve experienced in the States. The showers were fantastic. The sinks for dishes were well kept, with excellent (warm) water pressure, and the camping situation was relaxed. You basically pull up wherever and lay claim to the grass for the night. It’s sweet.

Time here: As long as you can afford it.

Svartifoss

Since we’re on the topic, Svartifoss is a waterfall in Skaftafell. It’s a few mile’s hike to reach the waterfall, with stunning views along the way. There is some elevation gain, but the trail is very well manicured, with steps that are soundly built. Overall, the hike is fairly easy with the exception of a few muddy areas if it’s been raining.

The waterfall itself shares the same basalt rock of oddly geometric formations that rise like pillars to a rim, over which flows pure Icelandic water. There are a few points for photographers to grab photos, including a platform very close to where it all buckets out.

Time here: 1 - 2 hours.

Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon

For me, this stop was imperative. It was a must-see. I had to go. If I saw nothing else, it had to be this.

That begs the question: Did it live up to expectation?

HELL YEAH!

How cool is it to see a bunch of glaciers wading in the water while seals playfully poke their heads up to say hi, while tourists gear up for an intimate tour of the 1,000-year-old ice. Meanwhile, a picturesque backdrop of snow-capped mountains ties the whole scene together. You are in the northern Atlantic on a crazy looking island that the Vikings founded.

You could say I had a moment.

The wind was particularly strong that day. The sun was out, but it was blustery cold. My nose was running, and I kept fiddling with my camera, so the tips of my fingers were a bit cold. But, no tid bit of discomfort took away from that short but humbling experience at Jökulsárlón.

Time here: As long as you need… but about an hour realistically.

Thingvellir National Park

All but ending our venture along the South Coast was our stop in Thingvellir National Park. We spent a few nights camping out on a sheep-trodden field in front of Lord of the Rings-style snowy mountains. What a trip, man.

The park is an easy drive from Reykjavik, so it’s not uncommon to find buses headed there for the day. Once in the park, there’s a main trailhead with a nice little cafe, a gift shop with some neat books, and more. Outside, you’ll find a 360-degree view of the park — mountains and one of Iceland’s largest lakes, the church, and the site of the Althing, the Icelandic parliament from the 10th to 18th centuries.

It’s a rocky, windy (as in the road), and sublime park. And, we typically visited monuments and famous sites during the morning and evening, so it wasn’t too crowded. Really, in late September, almost nothing felt too crowded — except for the Blue Lagoon and Gullfoss, which were still dope.

The Geysir

If you are planning to hit Gullfoss, you should consider going to the Geysir too. Really, the Geysir, Gullfoss and Thingvellir National Park all go hand-in-hand. Ashley and I used the park as base camp, and then we day-tripped out into the countryside to see things like this wicked Geysir that attracted a bunch of folks who waited eagerly for the thing to blow. And it did.

As you’re walking up, the sweet smell of rotten eggs sticks to your parka as the steam dances around in the cool wind. In the distance, you’ll hear ooo’s and ahhh’s from the crowd gathered around the main Geysir. But, that’s not the only attraction in the park.

It’s almost like a museum or an exhibit. You move from one geysir or hot spring to the next. Each is unique. You have the main spectacle, sure, but there is also a killer vista that you can hike to as well.

Our Brief Time in Reykjavik

Taking a hot shower after spending a week camping in a small van with your significant other for a week was a real treat. A real treat.

And Reykjavik wasn’t bad at all.

When we first got to town, it felt big. But, looks are deceiving. Walking around the city takes no time at all, and you can hit many of the major sites and museums within a solid afternoon.

We essentially had a good weekend in the city. Over a few packed mornings, we went from museum to museum, site to site, shop to shop, restaurant to restaurant, and got a very full experience out of Reykjavik.

Quick side note, if you’re into history and have the patience for museums, I loved the National Museum of Iceland. I probably could’ve stayed in there all day if Ashley let me. (She didn’t.) The Settlement Exhibition is also really cool. It’s much smaller, but still offers fascinating information. If you only have the day, hit this one. If you can dedicate more time, put the National Museum of Iceland at the top of the list.

Come evening, we were pretty beat so we didn’t experience much night life. But, from what we saw, it was a quiet, easy going place with enough going on. People were friendly, the sea food was fantastic, and the Handknitting Association of Iceland is ONE OF THE BEST places to get a sweater or other knit goods in the city. (Just avoid the touristy stores that carry sweaters made in places outside of Iceland — unless you don’t care.)

By the time we boarded the plane, we both felt like we’d done enough, that we were leaving Iceland with a nice, full story to tell and to hold onto for as long as our memories would allow. Our time in Reykjavik, I think, helped solidify the memories of traveling the Ring Road, seeing spectacular sights, and finally, finally going to the land of fire and ice.

CHECK OUT MY ENTIRE PHOTO GALLERY FROM THE TRIP.