Hike Johnston Canyon to the Ink Pots — It’s Worth It
Johnston Canyon was the last hike we set out to do before heading back to Minnesota.
Time was running out.
My first choice was Mount Fairview. Time wasn’t on our side, though.
The folks at the information center in Banff recommended the Johnston Canyon Trail when we visited upon arrival.
We pushed it off until checking off every other box.
Moraine Lake, check.
Lake Louise, check.
Peyto, check.
Lake Minnewanka, check.
Eat a delicious burger, check.
Drink delicious beer, check. (Check out Banff Ave Brewing Co.)
With what little time we had left, we scoured other things to do before landing on the Johnston Canyon Trail. It seemed good. Highly recommended.
Our final morning here too soon, we hopped in the rental and drove off.
Why Didn’t We Prioritize this Hike?
Arriving around 9 a.m., the parking lot was wide open. Only a few cars speckled the asphalt, while fewer still parked on the street.
FYI, parking in the lot cost a fee. Pay $15 or so for the day inside the shop.
I went in, but since we were early, the local shipment of parking permits wasn’t in yet so the nice guy at the register let us park for free.
Score!
Not to mention, the weather was about as beautiful as it gets.
In the beginning of the week, we ran into showers and overcast skies. Progressively, it all turned for the better, culminating at this point.
The air was crisp like fall, the clouds were sparse, and the sun cut through the lodgepole pines.
We set off energized.
Our goal: The Ink Pots. The trip would be 11.6 km (~7 miles).
Strive for the Ink Pots — It’s Worth It
You experience a couple hundred feet of elevation gain throughout the trail. Overall, it’s not bad.
The terrain is mostly paved until getting far enough along.
Foot traffic tends to die off the farther along you go, which is also when the trail becomes a little more wild. Toward the end, it’s not paved. It’s a dirt trail, beat by earnest footwork and determined hikers.
That alone is inspiring.
But largely, you’re on rolling pavement and concrete that lays out a nicely maintained pathway through huge canyon walls cut by water.
This trail is broken up into increments.
The first leg of the race is to the lower falls.
Then, continue climbing, another set of falls.
Then, the upper falls.
Beyond that, you’re closing the gap to the Ink Pots.
The falls turn from rapids to towering cliffs over which water flows with enormous power.
Seeing the falls transcend like this was encouraging.
The more you hike, the greater the views. And in the morning, you’re sharing those views with far fewer people than on the way out — say, around noon.
Reaching the Inks Pots
We reached the Ink Pots just before noon, and the sun was high.
When you descend ever so slightly into this hidden valley, you’re met with the panoramic view of the surrounding mountains that tower over the rest of the landscape. You’re closed in on all sides.
A calm river splits the land.
And then there are the Ink Pots, small pools of total transparent water with trails that weave and wind around each of them. They sit in a museum-like exhibit right after the trail ends, interspersed in a relatively clustered section of the valley, before breaking off and yielding to the fields.
Benches are mounted along the meandering trails that run every which way. It’s a rest stop, where people take a load off and enjoy the amazing views after a decent hike out.
I walked around the pools, studying them and watching the incessant bubbling at the bottom.
Ink Pots, just ahead.
Then, joining my wife Ashley, I plopped down and laid down for a few minutes to take it all in and rest up before the return hike.
Others did the same.
A group of hikers took photos and hung out along the river, laughing and messing around, then occasionally pointing out features in the landscape.
A couple sat on a bench and took timed photos of themselves.
Others studied the Ink Pots like I did, only longer and harder.
Then, another group came to repeat what those before them were up to in this beautiful oasis.
Then, another group.
And another.
Foot traffic picked up. And before long, we broke out of there and, regretfully, left Banff.
Do I really need to go to the Ink Pots?
You don’t have to do anything you don’t want to.
But you should.
Based on the analysis of the trail store staff, it sounds like most people go for the Upper Falls then turn back.
The Ink Pots demands about a half day venture, and, as I know all too well now, this region offers visitors so much that it makes your already precious time even more valuable.
However, I would highly recommend this hike to anybody visiting the region. Seriously, I saw people of all ages and abilities on this trail. Some of the trail is even wheelchair-friendly, as it’s paved and at a low incline. (Still, watch for bumps, roots and animals.)
If time is of the essence, wake up early and carve out a half day before lunch. I recommend this anyway because foot traffic picks up considerably as the day goes on.
Like I said earlier, we started our hike around 9 a.m. We probably got back around 1:45, 2 p.m. Give or take.
The return hike was nothing like the hike out.
Hiking out, we enjoyed zen morning moments with nature.
On the way back, I might’ve been at the Bean in Chicago.
Okay, a bit of an exaggeration. But the point being is that the number of people hiking the trail in the after goes way up. What was going at our own pace turned into shimmying passed others on narrow canyon trails and traffic jams.
While it’s awesome enjoying these places with groups and other people, it’s a different experience when you’re alone and it’s quiet. I think both have value, but I prefer the latter.
All that said, is it actually worth it to hike all the way out to the Ink Pots? Yes, and you’ll thank me when you reach the valley.
Ever hiked the Johnston Canyon Trail to the Ink Pots? What was your experience? Let me know in the comments!